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• White Wine

  2023 Pouilly-Fumé, J. de Villebois

  £2795

  The subtle combination of smoky and ripe fruit aromas preludes a palate of candied pineapple, peach and mango flavours. Elegant and fresh, with the characteristic smoky note of a great Pouilly Fumé.

  Pouilly-Fumé is the Sauvignon Blanc appellation located on the Right Bank of the Loire River. The appellation was created in 1937 originally as Blanc Fumé de Pouilly. Pouilly- Fumé takes its name from Pouilly-sur-Loire, the village from which the wines originate; while ‘Fume’ refers to Blanc Fumé, the local synonym for Sauvignon Blanc. Fumé translates as ‘smoky’, which denotes the struck gunflint notes that characterise the wines. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes that produced this cuvée are grown on the main Pouilly Fumé terroirs of Villiers and Barrois, where the soils are made up of limestone, marls with oyster shells and clayey-flint ‘Silex’ soils. It is these flinty ‘Silex’ soils, which impart the characteristic smoky flavours in the wine.

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  White Wine

  2020 Blanc Etc, Domaine Didier Dagueneau

  £12700

  Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the global benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and there is no bigger name or more highly regarded producer in the area than Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Now under the guidance of Didier’s talented son Louis-Benjamin, the wines still follow his ethos that authentic Pouilly Fumé requires healthy fruit from low yielding, old vines to produce the purest, and most intense and vibrantly fresh wine. That’s not to say these wines are typical of the appellation. Given the severely low yields and approach to élevage, Dagueneau wines emphasise a creamy texture rather than bracing acidity, and combine mineral flavours with exotic fruits to supreme effect.

  Previously labelled as Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, now reborn as Blanc Etc… and looking better than ever. Generally speaking this is the most approachable wine in the range, and since Louis-Benjamin came aboard the wine is now far closer in quality and class to the other releases. While each of the other wine focus on a single soil type or terroir, Blanc etc… blends some young vine parcels on their Saint-Andelain hill with two parcels planted on flinty clay and limestone white clay soils nearby. It was fermented in a mix of new and three-four year old barrels and then matured in both wood and tank.

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  Great Wines

  White Wine

  2020 Pouilly Fume Pur Sang, Domaine Didier Dagueneau

  £14900

  Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the global benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and there is no bigger name or more highly regarded producer in the area than Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Now under the guidance of Didier’s talented son Louis-Benjamin, the wines still follow his ethos that authentic Pouilly Fumé requires healthy fruit from low yielding, old vines to produce the purest, and most intense and vibrantly fresh wine. That’s not to say these wines are typical of the appellation. Given the severely low yields and approach to élevage, Dagueneau wines emphasise a creamy texture rather than bracing acidity, and combine mineral flavours with exotic fruits to supreme effect.

  Pur Sang is a superstar in the Dagueneau cellar, and is widely considered one of the great white wines of the world.

  Pur Sang translates as thoroughbred, this wine coming from a densely planted, 30-year-old vineyard called La Folie, five kilometres north of Saint-Andélain. Hidden between two parcels of woodland, the vineyard – whose name literally translates as `madness` – is named for the local farmers who thought Didier Dagueneau was crazy when he purchased the land, which was not a vineyard and was full of huge boulders. It was not even registered as part of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. But Didier had done his homework, as not only was La Folie an historical Pouilly vineyard, but its vein of pure flint, as well as its gently sloping, south/south-east exposure, made it potentially one of Pouilly’s finest. Very pale colour, aromas recall grilled pink grapefruit with a hint of white peach – beautifully expressive. Palate is full, having a rich, floral, complex, aromatic core, creamy texture, and a satisfyingly long finish.

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